Sleeves

So Many Sleeves!!

You can view this slide show of the different types of sleeves below or here:

 

Inserting a set in sleeve can be difficult, but as with most techniques, becomes easier the more you do it.  There are many videos and tutorials out there showing how to insert a set in sleeve which I’ll direct you to below, but before you look at these, here are my main tips:

  • transfer all the markings from the sleeve pattern and the front and back patterns (transfer any notches or small circles to help you match the front, back and shoulder)
  • Sew 2 rows of ease stitching within the seam allowance on the sleeve, between the front and back notches 

Videos:

You can watch my videos on how to insert a set in sleeve.  I’ve created 3 parts to go along with the samples we have been creating in class.  They’re not the best videos so apologies for any poor quality!

Part 1 – Transferring the markings from the sleeve pattern to the fabric

Part 2 – Creating an elastic casing on the sleeve using bias binding (or ribbon)

Part 3 – Ease stitching the sleeve, pinning in place and machine stitching

Angela Kane shows how to insert a set in sleeve – I like her method, but I would stitch the ease stitching 1cm and 1.3cm from the raw edge, so it is within the seam allowance.  That way you don’t need to unpick any stitching after you’ve inserted the sleeve.

Tutorials:

This Craftsy tutorial shows how you can set in the sleeve without ease stitching, although my preference would be to ease stitch, unless I’m working with a stretch fabric.

 

2-Piece Sleeve – found on jackets and allows for a closer, more ‘tailored’ fit. The 2 piece sleeve consists of an upper sleeve and an under sleeve.  Once you piece these two together this sleeve can be inserted in the same way as a 1-piece sleeve (providing you have marked all the corresponding dots and notches from the pattern!!)

Videos:

This video shows how the 2-piece sleeve is constructed and then inserted into a jacket.  It begins with construction of the vent so if you don’t want to see that part you can skip that section.

Tutorials:

This tutorial from Grainline Studio shows how to attach the pieces of the sleeves and how to insert it through clear pictures.  You’ll need to scroll down past the initial stages to the sleeve part.

Craftsy offer this tutorial on inserting sleeves into a jacket.

 

Sleeve Vents – Found on jackets with 2 piece sleeves.  These links will take you to tutorials and videos on how to sew them and also how to attach the lining.

Videos:

I’ve found an excellent resource from QUT fashion studio which takes you all the way through how to construct a jacket.  The part on sewing the sleeve vent is here and attaching the sleeve hem is here.  It’s definitely worth watching the whole series of videos to take you through piecing together the outer shell and the lining.  The entire series of videos can be found here.

An alternative video on constructing and lining a sleeve vent can be found here, this works in a similar way to my handout on constructing the sleeve vent and lining.

Tutorials:

If you prefer to take your time and follow the steps in a pictorial format, these tutorials are worth a look:

Sewing the sleeve vent and binding the opening edges with Sigrid – tutorial

Sewing the sleeve vent and lining – alternative method – tutorial

Creating a 2 piece sleeve pattern from a one piece sleeve – tutorial

 

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